The Vatican

I really, really love the Vatican.  The history, the tradition, the art--all are beyond anything you can see anywhere else on earth.  At the same time, I really, really, hate visiting the Vatican.  Notwithstanding its unparalled glories, getting there and seeing it is a logistical nightmare that renders the experience nearly unbearable  Today was no exception.  We got up early and headed out. As we waited for the bus, we got concerned that we might miss our check in for our 10:30 tour.  We decided to walk (It's only three bridges up the Tiber.)  On the way, our bus passed us, of course.  Once there, we waited in a typically chaotic Italian anteroom and then waited again for a tour escort to materialize outside.  We went through several more checkpoints, which seemed to be primarily for the purpose of satisfying a bureaucratic urge.  Finally, we were in St. Peters, surrounded by all its artistic majesty.  Typically, Meredith loved it.  Typically, I tossed the audioguide aside after listening to a couple of episodes. (It is clear this was recorded under Benedict's reign:  It is about 20% art and 80% theology.)  Highlight of the St. Peter's visit was Meredith's amazement at seeing the tombs of the popes and her desire to say a prayer at one of the side chapels.  I love the way this trip is nurturing her spiritual side.  After St. Peters, we hurried through the 100 degree heat to the Vatican Museum.  Along the way, we encountered Indian and Chinese tourists, who have no respect for personal space.  Oppressed by heat and jostled by tourists, I nearly lost it.  Decided that from this point on, any time I encounter an Indian or Chinese tourist, I'll shove first!  (especially Indians!)  As we were crossing a street an officious diver in a small car started plowing through the crowd.  Nearly hit Cecily.  So I pounded on the hood of his car.  nearly had an incident!  Once at the Vatican Museum, we encountered another classic example of Italian inefficiency.  The tour operator tried to send us back across the piazza to the Omnia Tours office to join our tour group so that we could retrace our steps bacck to the museum.  We refused to go.  In the end, she relented.  Italian ability to move people around pointlessly never ceases to amaze.  We fed everybody softdrinks, water and Pringles chips--the only thing we had had to eat all day, since we had originally thought we would catch a lunch between St. Peters and the museum.  Then we set out to see Raphaels and Michaelangelos, commenting by the end that we really couldn't take in any more.  The Vatican is incredible in all its glory, notwithstanding the dubious charcter of some who built it.  At the end of the tour, we were too tired to try to track down the bus and return to our apartment, a short distance away, so we took a cab. Our cab driver was entertaining--and expensive.  What should have been a 10-15 euro cab ride was 30, and we definitely took the scenic route!  Whatever.  Sopped a little.  Had the Italian equivalnt of hot dogs for dinner, along with some Mac and Cheese brought by Linda from home.  Afterwards the square with M and C.  Heard our friend Grayson Munn is in town.  Perhaps we will meet up!  My feet are incredibly sore from walking and heat, with heat rash climbing my ankles.  This, too, shall pass.  Tomorrow, more grueling tours with Linda and Bill in advance of their departure on Friday.